New Zealand Fashion Week Day 1

Fashion and Hollywood Insider, Clif Loftin, is on the ground in New Zealand attending the 10th Anniversary of New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW), here is his on site reports from some of his favorite shows from Day 1:

STARFISH

I started my first day off at NZFW with the Starfish show. Starfish’s Winter 2011 collection SEVEN SISTERS pays homage to women’s shared love of style and how individual fashion flair results in endless interpretations. Drawing inspiration from the playful rivalry between sisters, each garment in the collection shares the same upbringing, but like sisters each is imbued with idiosyncratic style. Contrasts echo through the range – timeless but contemporary, dreamy but functional and prim yet rebellious. The result is a kinetic tension between the different cuts, fabrics, colors, patterns, shapes and styles, with individual combinations resulting in multiple translations of the SEVEN SISTERS range. I was most impressed with the use of the 100% Suri NZ made fabrics, the silver metallic dress and the peach Lily Tunic.

JULIETTE HOGAN

The Morning After The Night Before – for Winter 2011 the Juliette Hogan girl lets down her hair, breaks her curfew, hikes her hemline and caution is thrown to the wind. Hogan’s normally demure muse has dipped her toe into darker waters. The presence of the inevitable return of the coquettish girl exists, but for this range the “J Ho” girl walks a precious tightrope between naughty and nice with surprising ease. Juliette touches lightly on her staple pleating, however opts to make her statement pieces this season out of leather and fully fashioned knitwear and includes a dramatic floor scraping lace gown in ivory or black – think either debutante or black widow – depends on your mood. A subtle palette of safe neutrals is brought to life against hard military green, bright powder blue, and a vintage floral print. Key shapes included the cropped leather tee, immaculately tailored tweed trench; hand knitted sweaters and intricate paneling on corsets and dresses.

ANDREA MOORE

Neon Jungle -- Blinding neon, exotic florals, a modern safari look; the winter collection from Andrea Moore is about a dazzling energy to tackle the coldest of seasons in the urban jungle. “We recently moved to Auckland from Wellington, so this collection is a celebration of making the transition to the urban jungle of New Zealand’s biggest city,” she says. Exotic prints, enchanting fabrics and silhouettes are all ready for an expedition in the sprawling metropolis. “I really am still defining fabrics and their context and what style would suit their particular personalities,” says Moore. “I am happy to let the fabric speak for itself. This range has been a runaway freight train, it really seems to have a life of its own.” Khaki pops up through bold statement neon pieces, and drape is back with a vengeance. “I have become rather obsessed with it,” Moore says. “Manipulating volume yet keeping it structured has been really challenging and fun,” she says. The designer strove for draped yet tailored looks with a military bent. The floral themes are still evident, including the brilliant digital prints on silks and other signature patterns that have been key in defining the label.


CYBELE

Water, Earth, Fire and Air were the ancient elements that inspired Cybele’s Nieriya collection. Designer Cybele Wiren evoked a pagan cult of nature theme while presenting her 2011 winter collection. The runway had a large monumental alter to nature that looked as though it was meant to be burnt in a ritualistic offering. The symbol of the hawk made many appearances throughout the collection as the sacred animal spirit. Cybele featured several of her signature graphic elements with bold and distinctive prints. My favorite pieces from this dramatic collection were the handmade silk fringing wafts from capes, ponchos and scarves cut in airy, flowing silks that can be worn right-side up, or sideways, to create different shapes on the body.

Clif Loftin & American designer, Nicole Miller and Nicole Miller Exec Janey Evett

ADRIAN HAILWOOD

Going Platinum – Like mannequins with glassy, expressionless eyes; blood red lips, pancake makeup, false lashes and peroxide blonde locks -- the women featured in the photographs of LA artist Alex Prager look like living dolls fighting a war against constructed beauty – and losing. “The subjects come across as so vulnerable behind a veneer of fake fifties Hollywood glamour,” says Hailwood. “Their fragility shines through her color saturated images, yet there is theatricality about how they try to hide their emotions from the camera,” he says. Prager’s work inspired the designer to create Going Platinum, his 2011 winter collection. Devoree silks are in deep red highlighted with metallic patterns; real gold thread is imbedded in cypress green, and jewel tones feature luxe shaping – and circles are ubiquitous, from small dots to large fans of flowers. Hailwood describes the line as, “slightly left of center; there is beauty there, and yet just on the periphery there is something that tells you it is all make believe.”


ZAMBESI

I concluded my journey through the first day of NZFW with one of my favorite NZ design houses – Zambesi. Neville and Liz Findlay and Dayne Johnston never disappoint. The location for the show was orchestrated in a large parking shed, adding the perfect amount of drama that always accompanies a Zambesi show. I absolutely loved the menswear that was inspired by French sailors, Athletics and Collegiate Campus. Cuffed trousers and letterman cut jackets ribbed like athletic uniforms. Camel blazers accented by “all white” garment ghosting was stunning. Classically cut and tailored blazers were paired with simple trucker caps. The women’s wear contained lots of wintry silhouettes with its shaggy oversized coats, scarves and skirts. I loved the casual striped tops and jumpers. With hip tunes like Iko Iko floating though the air the show was the perfect way to open what is sure to be an electrifying week ahead.

Pieter Stewart, NZFW Founder and Managing Director with Zambesi designer Liz Findlay and Myken Stewart, Brand Manager for NZFW

(2nd & 3rd from the Left) Krista White & Derek Warburton with friends